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Il libro che ti accingi a leggere, cara Lettrice e caro Lettore, è diviso in due parti: questa e la seconda, con tutte le note e l’indice analitico. Esso riporta nella traduzione italiana le narrazioni di tre viaggiatori inglesi – H.Swinburne e Keppel Craven nel primo tomo, ed Edward Lear nel secondo – che descrivono la loro visita nella regione del monte Vulture con le sue città e i suoi paesi, riportando anche le loro stesse note. Abbiamo voluto concentrare l’attenzione su questi tre personaggi, perché viaggiatori provenienti dalla stessa nazione (il Regno Unito), perché visitano gli stessi luoghi, perché effettuano i loro viaggi in un arco di tempo che va dalla fine del XVIII secolo alla metà del successivo, quando nel Regno di Napoli si verificarono importanti eventi (si pensi alla Rivoluzione del 1799, al Decennio Francese, alla Rivoluzione del 1820-21).
La Basilicata è stata visitata, nel XVIII e XIX secolo, da diversi viaggiatori stranieri, i quali nei loro diari hanno lasciato significative narrazioni di quello che avevano visto e delle persone che vi avevano incontrato. Narrazioni che, una volta pubblicate, avevano suscitato curiosità e interesse nei lettori di mezza Europa. Come scriveva, nel 1785, M.lle De Keralio nella sua prefazione alla traduzione francese del libro Voyages dans les Deux Siciles di H.Swinburne: «Poiché le opere di H.Swinburne godono da lungo tempo in Francia del favore del Pubblico, ho creduto che il suo Viaggio nelle Due Sicilie, apparso meno di un mese fa in Inghilterra [nel 1783], sarebbe, come gli altri scritti dello stesso Autore, capace di interessare i Lettori francesi in modo utile e piacevole, e così mi sono accinta a tradurlo nella nostra lingua».1
Ai nostri giorni, le opere di questi viaggiatori stranieri sono oggetto di studio e di accurate riflessioni. Un’interessante antologia è quella di G.Caserta,2 in cui si possono leggere, in traduzione italiana, le relazioni di diversi viaggiatori di alcuni paesi europei, venuti nei secoli scorsi a visitare la regione.
Impressioni, resoconti di viaggio che ci fanno “vedere” come gli stranieri percepivano le realtà, sociali e culturali, delle province interne del Regno di Napoli e ritrovare nelle loro annotazioni le cose buone da essi riscontrate. Perché, forse, troppo a lungo abbiamo trascurato, se non sottovalutato, quanto di positivo la nostra tradizione culturale ci ha tramandato. Uno sguardo attento sul nostro passato certamente ci induce a considerazioni, se non ottimistiche, sulla condizione odierna del Meridione, quanto meno a non abbandonarci a lamentazioni retoriche sulle passate arretratezze rispetto alle nazioni allora più avanzate nel campo economico e sociale. Cosa che diventa indispensabile in questa nostra epoca, che riscopre le culture locali come antidoto alla globalizzazione, che non conosce confini e condiziona la vita di tutti i giorni.
I campi coltivati, i filari di viti nelle campagne ai piedi del monte Vulture erano per questi viaggiatori inglesi un segno tangibile dell’abile lavoro degli abitanti e del loro rispetto dell’ambiente. Che dire poi delle annotazioni di aspetti più squisitamente culturali che essi evidenziano in alcuni incontri con queste comunità, alcune di esse formate da cittadini provenienti dall’Albania. La mancanza di celeri e facili comunicazioni, la mancanza di comodi luoghi di residenza, non scoraggiarono i visitatori inglesi a venire nella regione del Vulture, ed essi vennero ripagati dalla bellezza di cui sono ricche le catene dell’Appennino lucano. Si mostrarono coraggiosi nell’ affrontare i fastidi del viaggio, ma sapevano che giungendo nel paese si veniva gentilmente ospitati. Alla fine, restare contenti di esserci venuti. Nei nostri paesi dell’Appennino meridionale la storia antica si unisce alla medievale ed insieme formano un tutto omogeneo ed uno splendido paesaggio, in cui la vegetazione naturale, la bellezza dei siti è di gran lunga superiore all’opera dell’uomo. Non aggiungiamo altro, perché siamo certi che la lettura di queste relazioni dei viaggiatori inglesi, chiare e scorrevoli, susciterà in Voi interesse per la Basilicata, la sua storia e la sua civiltà.
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Arturo Bascetta –
IL VIAGGIATORE INGLESE
L’autore francese, M.Valery,9 descrive così il viaggiatore tipo che veniva dall’Inghilterra, e anche gli inconvenienti a cui andava incontro.
“Appena siete in Italia, con il vostro aspetto di forestiere (straniero), troverete un atteggiamento presso gli abitanti molto diversificato: nelle classi alte, molta cortesia, ospitalità e giovialità; nel popolo, al contrario, lo straniero, malgrado le formule cerimoniose, non è che una preda, una sorta di bottino su cui buttarsi per trarre la propria parte secondo i mezzi: il ragazzino, mezzo nudo, corre appresso alla vettura gridando carità, ma quando sarà diventato uomo, potrebbe prendere la sua carabina e mendicare in maniera più nobile; il perfidus caupo non è meno furbacchione dei tempi di Orazio. Infine, vetturini, staffieri, postiglioni, camerieri, padroni di barche, sembrano tutti voler far restituire in dettaglio all’Italia i tributi che le invasioni straniera molto spesso le hanno fatto pagare, e non c’è nessuno che non agisca da cittadino in questo senso. Qualche autorità non disdegna affatto di entrare in questa sorte di lega; gli eterni e costosi visti di passaporto non sono che un’imposta indiretta sulla curiosità dei viaggiatori; in qualche città di secondo ordine, quali Ferrara, Reggio, Piacenza, i biglietti dello spettacolo, da qualche anno, per gli stranieri costano il doppio per decisione del municipio. Indipendentemente dal pagamento dei servizi, i camerieri di casa dove siete ospitati, il custode, il doganiere, il gendarme, tutti tendono la mano; quello che costa caro non è quello che comprate, ma quello che bisogna sempre dare come mancia; non c’è perfino poeta di locanda, autore di un sonetto per il vostro felice arrivo, in cui non ha mancato di far rallegrare per la millesima volta il Tevere e l’Arno, che non chieda la moneta. Bisogna che il forestiere si rassegni, che finisca di non sovrastimare; i suoi godimenti di viaggiatore ci perderebbero; la lotta non può essere uguale, tanto questa gente hanno il fiuto e l’esperienza del guadagno.
L’inglese fuori del suo ambiente perde una parte delle sue qualità; la sua dignità diventa boria, il suo ragionamento sa di scherno e di intolleranza; la necessità di mettere da parte il proprio io, se così si può dire, è il primo dovere del viaggiatore, cosa per niente sentita da lui; egli porta la sua noia, la sua esigenza e la sua mania tra gente, le cui usanze e abitudini sono le più opposte; e la soverchia inglese [arroganza inglese] in particolare sconcerta la faciloneria italiana. È vero che questi numerosi viaggiatori (inglesi), attratti in Italia dal gusto per le arti e dal desiderio di istruirsi, sono molto diversi da quelli di altri paesi: il turista invece va per il gusto di andare; fa ciò che fa il suo vicino; è un imitatore che non si entusiasma, che non è portato da alcuna esigenza di conoscenza o di sentimento: l’istinto viaggiante è in lui solo curiosità, una voglia di aver visto dei paesi, un altro tipo di fantasia e di vanità. Egli rileva esattamente ciò che vede nel suo cammino, ma non ne trae ispirazione; le bellezze della natura, le meraviglie dell’arte, sono per lui solo un arido lessico; la sua conversazione è sterile, priva di immaginazione, e nei nostri vari incontri o percorrrenze in compagnia, sono stato colpito più di una volta dalla volgarità dei fatti e delle osservazioni che sull’inseparabile diario annotava. Questo tipo di viaggiatori offre inoltre di cogliere sfumature molto diverse: (quelli che si fermano) nel nord Italia, sono molto vari, e si compongono anche di mercanti, artigiani, molto stimabili senza dubbio, ma che non rispondono affatto all’idea che, secondo la loro mentalità, si dovrebbe avere di un vero gentlemen; buona parte, in genere, di questi viaggiatori inglesi non va oltre Firenze; i viaggiatori di Roma, e specialmente di Napoli, sono infinitamente più distinti, e tra loro ci sono uomini di valore vero e superiore.